When you removed the head bolts were there any that seemed not tight? Could be lower bores in the block sounds like you got her running good job!

Sorry for the delayed reply...

For the injector tubes, I tried to measure how far they stick up above the head surface with a calipers.  I could not find any obvious issues with those meeting the specs in the book.  They all were up some and none totally level or below the head surface.  No doubt some parallel blocks and a depth gauge would be the preferred way to check but I don't have those.  They all seemed to be OK and within spec.

For the liners, I tried to set a straight edge on them at the outside rim and use feeler gauges to check for how far above the block deck they were sticking up.  So far I could tell, there were no obvious problems there compared to the specs in the book.

Yes, I did find the manual shows for the valve clearances 0.3mm (.012") cold and 0.25mm (.010") hot.  I do recall the #1 cylinder seemed to be greater than 0.025" and maybe more than that (its been a couple weeks ago).  So far I have not touched any of the adjustment screws.  I am going to be at the tractor again in a week to look at this some more and hopefully finish this project up and get it running.

I now wonder what the last person in there did, maybe they loosened the valves up?  I know the push rods are approximately 15" long and thermal expansion of steel being about 6.7E-6 in/in-F means they would grow by around 0.012" going from 75F to 200F.  The rocker ratio if not 1:1 would change this at the valve tip of course.

If these are too loose by something like 0.015" or so at cold, that maybe enough at the rod end to prevent it from flopping around when the crank is at another position.

New gasket looked about the same as the old for thickness or close to it, didn't measure it.  I have the rocker stands down and torqued the nuts.

So far I have not adjusted anything.  I followed the manual and turned over the crank until both #1 valves were closed with small gap and I could put in the pin in the bell to flywheel per the manual.  With that, cold I was getting about 0.037" or so.  I'd have to recheck the manual but I recall spec was for HOT at something like 0.025" so I can believe that COLD would be more.  These pushrods are about 15" long so they would grow a bit hot vs cold.  While I was looking at that, I noticed another cylinder (maybe #2, don't recall for sure) had 1 valve being open and the other with this huge gap as shown.  If I rotated the crank, I could get THAT cylinders valves to be closed with the small gap and then SOME OTHER cylinder had 1 valve with the huge gap.

I doubt that anyone adjusted the valves the last time this was apart for a head gasket years ago.  I also doubt they retorqued anything either after running it a while.  I wish I knew what the tach hours were when that was.  Also wish I could find some cold gap spec's so that I had at least that right before starting it.  Doing a hot adjustment is not going to be fun.

It would seem this must be normal but sure is strange.  I am pretty sure if I tightened up that screw with the huge gap, then at the compression TDC, one valve could not close.  I was asking someone about this and they recalled some 6 cylinder Mack truck engine years ago maybe was like this.  Just seems off that the intake? rods would be free to flop about like that on what I assume must be the exhaust stroke.

But, having never seen this before I decided to stop and ask before going any farther.  I am planning to be at the tractor location in about 3 weeks or so and hopefully get it back together and running.

I had the head checked for flatness by a engine shop and was declared good.

So, I got the new gaskets and decided to get these teflon rings again after discussion with the parts depo in Milwaukee.

Last week I was at the location where the 562 is and started the reassembly.  I scrapped the block and went over it with those abrasive scrubbing pads in a drill.  I'd gotten a 14x2.0 mm tap and chased all the head bolt holes and blew out the debris.  I also ran a die over all the bolts too.  I doubt this was done the last time this
was apart.  The liner protrusion was hard to check, but as far I could tell it seemed OK.



It was a pain getting this head back in place due to the dirt floor causing my hoist to get stuck as well as a post in the way.



This is a test fit of the new gasket.



These teflon rings are a royal pain to install.  The gasket must be totally flat or they pop up and won't stay down between the protuding
flange on the cylinder liner and the metal fire ring on the gasket.  They need to be cut to length with a razor as they are too long otherwise.



Note also that there is a "top" and "bottom" to them as they are slightly warped in cross section and if put in upside down are nearly impossible to stay flat to the head deck.  They have a groove that notches to the fire ring but not strongly so and they can pop up if that gasket is not totally flat on the head.  I spent way too much
time messing with these before I got them in place and could set the head down w/o them possibly not seated and affecting the head to block fit.

After torquing down the bolts in steps I went to check the cold valve gap.



What should the cold gap be?  I was getting something like .037" or ~.94mm

The other thing I noted that caused me to pause my reassembly is depending on the crank rotation, there is a HUGE gap on the rocker to value that even allows the pushrod to flop around.  The rocker can be teetor-tottered a lot in this position.



As the engine was turned through all the cam positions, the valve gap would be this HUGE amount, or the "normal" gap or pushing the valves open.

I'd had all the pushrods stuck in a pc of cardboard in order so they went back were they came from (as did the headbolts).

Is this normal?  I cannot see what I could have done to cause this if not.  Seems that all the cylinders do this too.

Finally got to cleaning up the head so I can have it checked for flatness.

Here I have only scraped old gasket residue off and wiped it down with acetone.

Rear 2 cylinders:



Front 2 cylinders:



While scraping, I found that my scraper would catch on the pressed-in injector tubes. This was especially noticeable on the center 2.  Reviewing my pictures of the old gasket, you can see where these left a impression.  Also, I note this is the same areas where the gasket rings are eaten away.




Is this normal or are these tubes protruding too far?  Also the scraper can catch on the pressed in spacers or tubes that seal the ends of that expansion gap between the cylinders.  Maybe even if not warped, this head should be surfaced?

I did talk to a person at the Milwaukee parts warehouse about those teflon rings.  Said some use them and some do not.  Also, when they rebuilt engines there, they did not use them.

Thanks for all the comments.

If it is Teflon could be why your H/G failed call MTZ see if Teflon seals come with the H/G set.Maybe teflon seal was a shipping item to protect the liner surface.Let us know what you find!

I am back again after nearly a year!!

This past holiday weekend I had time to pull the head off the Belarus 562.

Here are pictures:

A left side view of the engine showing the area I had seen bubbles forming while it was running.



This one shows the gasket setting on the top of the block with the head removed.  This is the rear most cylinder.  The teflon ring is eaten away.



The center 2 cylinders.



The front cylinder.



The gasket as a whole.  It seems all 4 cylinders are showing damage in the same area that coincides to the side of the head where the fuel injectors are located.  Is there a reason for this?



The tractor is 3-1/2hrs from here but I took the cylinder head back with me to have it checked for flatness.  I will be looking at the liners being even/level when I get back to looking at this later this summer.

Unfortunately for me, this tractor is not close by and the location is pretty primitive with lack of space and dark with a dirt floor.  I had to take extra time to dismantle the steering shaft to get it out of the way of my crane to pull off the head as I was working alone and this head is too heavy for me to lift easily.

Any comments appreciated!

thanks for replying.

I don't think its ever been hot but no way to know for sure at this time.   My father tended to have a pretty lite foot on stuff so I doubt he really overloaded it ever.

 These are not torque to yield bolts are they?  I am familiar with those from doing heads on some 80s car engines.

I doubt new head bolts were used the last time it was apart in the 90s.  I am not familiar with liner type blocks as the only engines I have ever worked on personally are gas engines w/o wet liners.  Are you saying the liner could be pushed down too far into the block and leave a sunken "rim" around the top surface where the gasket sets?  I do know the last time this was apart, those teflon rings were installed on the replacement gasket.

I doubt I will get time to take this apart until next year.  I don't live nearby and my vacation time is up for the time being.  I am sort of afraid to take it apart as at least now it runs and could be moved but if I take it apart its dead in the shed until whenever.