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Author Topic: 250AS Ignition Switch  (Read 10356 times)

imperial1960

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Re: 250AS Ignition Switch
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2015, 09:46:33 PM »
Im correct that your saying your Ignition switch and headlight switch are one switch? This is your last saying----The other concern is the starter solenoid wire does go hot when you turn they key and will kick it on however there is always a trace amount of voltage present even when the tractor is off and the ground switch is off.  Only a few mv but still, is that normal?  I dont think MILL-VOLTS that small would pull your battery down. There should be zero volts on the back side of the ground switch. If you get a volt reading with the ground switch off then test volts at battery are any lights coming on?.I found this out on my 562 I would say its normal because your test from pos to neg with ground switch off you would be seeking a ground. Start removing fuse one at a time while checking mill-volts
Belarus 562 4x4 russian loader bucket

arie515

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Re: 250AS Ignition Switch
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2015, 02:22:32 PM »
Take a look at some 250 manuals that we were able to find and post, it might have the needed information.
Go to: http://www.mtzequipment.com/tractor-service-manuals
Choose tab "Older models", there is a 250 User manual.
Hope this helps,
Arie

cameronfarm

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Re: 250AS Ignition Switch
« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2015, 10:07:02 AM »
Hi Guys, thanks for the responses.  Yes the black and yellow wires go to the headlights (hi and low beams) the blue wire goes to the brake lights.  There is a terminal on the switch that goes hot and stays hot when the key is inserted.  I connected the brake lights to that and a pig tale, the pig tale I ran to a 3 way switch to turn on either the low beams or high beams.  It works but I'm not sure if its correct.


I have the owners and shop manual but they material is not the greatest.  The quality of the wiring diagram is so poor its practically illegible, especially around the ignition switch.  It (The operators manual) does say there is supposed to be a three way switch for controlling the headlights which was missing from my setup (I assume thats the spot the PO put the push button starter in) so thats where I put my new 3 way in.


The other concern is the starter solenoid wire does go hot when you turn they key and will kick it on however there is always a trace amount of voltage present even when the tractor is off and the ground switch is off.  Only a few mv but still, is that normal? 


 
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imperial1960

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Re: 250AS Ignition Switch
« Reply #4 on: January 12, 2015, 09:17:03 PM »
OPPS Sorry I just looked at a picture of 250as its complety different from mine.
Belarus 562 4x4 russian loader bucket

imperial1960

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Re: 250AS Ignition Switch
« Reply #3 on: January 12, 2015, 07:04:02 PM »



Where do the yellow, Blue, and Black wires connect normally?  It looks like the yellow and black are power to the head lights and the blue is power to the brake lights.  When I connect them to the hot terminal on the ignition switch nothing works (The alternator terminal not the battery terminal or so I assume as it only has voltage when running)
What could cause the ignition switch when used to start the tractor to burn out 3 starters?  Apply voltage of some sort to the solenoid at all times?  It didnt sound like the starter was constantly engaged...
Should I just skip putting the new ignition switch in and rewire all new lights and forget about whatever the stock wiring was?               No expert here on your model tractor I would check where the Y/B/black wire go to first. Now do you have glow plugs or a glow light indicator on dashboard? There are relays that could of gone bad while previous owner decided to bypass starting system.Same thing happen to my 562 except first glow light on the dash fail then the ignition switch failed so I wired in a h/d push button switch. Then for the glow plugs I removed the OEM Ign switch installed a heavy duty ford starter relay with a dash toggle switch. Also I could be wrong but do you have a separate headlight switch on the dash? Bad grounds to starter or bad ground switch close to the batterys I would check first plus low volts to starter. You should use a DVM when checking wires I can post some pictures if needed but like I said No expert on your model tractor


« Last Edit: January 12, 2015, 09:09:43 PM by imperial1960 »
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Haymaker

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Re: 250AS Ignition Switch
« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2015, 02:04:12 PM »
Hi Guys,


I got a new to me 86 +/- Belarus 250AS that runs great. However none of the lights work and neither does the ignition switch. Someone rigged in a push button start and disconnected the yellow, blue, and black wires from the ignition switch.


I reconnected the stock starter wire and replaced the stock fuses with new automotive styles. The top 20amp breaker was missing when I got it but now its in and working. I used a screwdriver to break the ignition switch free and get it to start but it burnt through 3 starters that way. I hooked it back up to the push button setup and ordered a new ignition switch.


Switch is in, so my questions are:


Where do the yellow, Blue, and Black wires connect normally? It looks like the yellow and black are power to the head lights and the blue is power to the brake lights. When I connect them to the hot terminal on the ignition switch nothing works (The alternator terminal not the battery terminal or so I assume as it only has voltage when running)

What could cause the ignition switch when used to start the tractor to burn out 3 starters? Apply voltage of some sort to the solenoid at all times? It didnt sound like the starter was constantly engaged...
Should I just skip putting the new ignition switch in and rewire all new lights and forget about whatever the stock wiring was?   
 

 
Do you have the owners manual as there is usually a wiring diagram in them?
Hmmm i would think you would notice the starter being left engaged .  Did this happend to you or the prevous owner?   I think that one is just a straight 12volt starter is it not?  If you have a wiring diagram then sure you could spend the time and hook it up original.  But if you feel someone has "been in there fooling with stuff " it may turn into a time consuming job checking it all out especially if you're not familair with the wiring on this machine.  The quickest route maybe to just keep it simple and  wire it up yourself with 12volts going to the solenoid in the start (crank) posistion of what ever switch you have. As for the lights again you could wire it up yourself to feed 12 volts with the switch in the on/run position or just right from the battery through a fuse/switch.  That machine is a pretty simple so you have lots of options.      
« Last Edit: January 12, 2015, 02:06:12 PM by Haymaker »
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cameronfarm

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250AS Ignition Switch
« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2015, 03:34:58 PM »
Hi Guys,


I got a new to me 86 +/- Belarus 250AS that runs great.  However none of the lights work and neither does the ignition switch.  Someone rigged in a push button start and disconnected the yellow, blue, and black wires from the ignition switch.


I reconnected the stock starter wire and replaced the stock fuses with new automotive styles.  The top 20amp breaker was missing when I got it but now its in and working.  I used a screwdriver to break the ignition switch free and get it to start but it burnt through 3 starters that way.  I hooked it back up to the push button setup and ordered a new ignition switch.


Switch is in, so my questions are:


Where do the yellow, Blue, and Black wires connect normally?  It looks like the yellow and black are power to the head lights and the blue is power to the brake lights.  When I connect them to the hot terminal on the ignition switch nothing works (The alternator terminal not the battery terminal or so I assume as it only has voltage when running)
What could cause the ignition switch when used to start the tractor to burn out 3 starters?  Apply voltage of some sort to the solenoid at all times?  It didnt sound like the starter was constantly engaged...
Should I just skip putting the new ignition switch in and rewire all new lights and forget about whatever the stock wiring was?
  • Belarus 250AS