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Messages - damengineer

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
1
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / Re: 822 electrical problems
« on: March 24, 2020, 10:58:11 PM »
My 825 has a hood decal stating 822.  I replaced the ignition switch and the interlock relay.  The grounding switch was disconnected at the time.  I smelled something burning and the series/parallel switch was smoking...   I have'nt figured out what caused this.........  The wiring is really a pain.  The wires all look the same color.  I have not really found a wiring diagram that fits the tractor.  The one on page A5-9E appears to be the closest....   Has anyone had experience with the wiring on these??   I have a spare series/[arallel switch.  If this does not fix it then I am going to have to rewire it to 24V start with the gauges running on 12V.  I have a 24v self exciting alternator.  I really don't want to go to all that work right now as I will have to remove the loader to do all that work.  Hanging over the side of the loader is not fun..

2
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / Re: 822 electrical problems
« on: March 19, 2020, 05:59:49 PM »
I have changed the keyed starter switch on the dash but the starer will not crank.  When started, the indicator light on the left of the dash goes out.  The s tarter does not engage after the tractor has run up to speed as it did before.  However, the ammeter is not indicating the alternator is  charging.  The schematic I have shows a 50amp fuse labeled PB50 or PV50 the location is stated as front dashboard, but I have not found one there yet.  Does anyone have any experience??

3
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / 822 electrical problems
« on: March 09, 2020, 10:44:48 AM »
My 822 would not start, the starter would not engage.  24V switch would acturate but no starter.  One of hte screws that holds the solenoid onto the starter had vibrated out and the solenoid case was out of alignment.  However, after getting it all together I started up and drove about 300 ft and the starter engaged.  I staopped and restarted it and after it ran about 15 seconds the starter again engaged.  I finally had to quit.  It appears the interlock relay is bad.  I have ordered both relays in the circuit and another ignition switch as my switch is frozen and I had connected a switch to the 24v switch to actuate the starter.  Perhaps the ignition switch is stuck in start position and causing the problem.  If replacement does not work, then complete rewiring is in order... 

4
I have chained a post to the tracks of a dozer to get it unstuck.  When it got to the end of the tracks, it broke the chain, so use an old chain..    You can also chain a post to the outside of the tire so it will dig in the ground as it comes around.  works well if the tires are wider than the fenders.  Also can chain a short piece of log to the outside of the tire and stop just before it hits the fender...

5
Talked to Ray and he also said the pump was a left hand rotation.  However I found this one on Ebay that is for the MTZ 80 & 82 which I believe is the same tractor as my 822 & 8345.  I believe this pump can be run either direction.   I am going to try it. 
here is the link...https://www.ebay.com/itm/NSH-50YZ-3L-NSH50U3-BELARUS-HYDRAULIC-PUMP/142606509566

6
My old 822 starter worked one day the next it wouyld not do anything.  I could only hear the 12/24 switch engage.  I finally made a remote starter switch and connected it while holding a volt meter on the starter terminals.   I had 24v to the starter and then 214v to the solenoid but it was not working.  One of the 3 screws that hold the solenoid on to the starter had fallen out and the solenoid was slightly off center and binding the plunger inside.  I had checked this by crossing the big starter terminals while engaging the switch. 

Just  FYI

7
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / 822 ground switch upgrade
« on: February 28, 2020, 12:00:48 PM »
My 822 ground switch is the old pushbutton stylle switch.  My arthritis has got bad enough that I can't push the button in.  My wife always had trouble with it.   I have lubricated the stem also and it still is just too hard to push.  I have a couple of the newer style ground switches, for my 8345, but the newer switch is not as deep as the old one and will not make connection to the grounding bracket at the bottom of the switch to the cab.  I cannot find a part number for the bracket for a 8345 as I don't have parts manuals for the 8000 & 9000 series.  The newer style switch will work, but there is a lot of modifications to the bracket needed to make it work.   a bracket from an 8345 would solve the problem...  Also I would like to have a sert of parts manuals for the 8345

8
I found the supplier of the higher volume pump.  http://www.jihostroj.com/  I looked at the original video.  Getting one to the USA is going to be a problem.   I would like to find one with threaded ports, a t least on the output side.  If I was doing the installation as shown on the video, I would have made the intake elbow coupled with a rubber hose.   That way the exact measurements would not have to be so close.  Also makes it easier to remove....  I would sure like to find one soon as I have my 8345 torn down to the pump to install a joystick valve for the loader.

9
MTZ Tractors - Current Models / 1220.4 Air conditioner problems
« on: July 02, 2019, 04:55:48 PM »
My 1220.4 A/C is blowing hot air.  The compressor high side pressure will rise to 500 lbs quickly when the switches are bypassed.  I suspect the dessicant bag in the filter drier has disentegrated.  It  probably has plugged the expansion valve.  Does anyone have a number on the expansion valve.  Ray has listings on all the parts except the expansion valve.

10
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / Re: 5 and 8 lug
« on: July 01, 2019, 11:59:30 PM »
CAn't answer as to the lugs.  I couldn't say how many my 82 has.  The mirrors from trucks will work.  Convex ones are better.  When they get bumped  you can still see where you need to.  Regular mirrors are a pain to keep focused.  I have bought some really good mirrors from Sportsman's guide ex military ones. 

11
Maintenance - Service & Repair / Re: Belarus 820 transmissiom problem
« on: June 08, 2019, 10:55:25 AM »
You did nt specify whick high/low was out of gear.  If it is the one on the gearshift, then  I always pull or push the shift lever into the desired gear and let out the clutch to make sure it is fully engaged.  You can tell by the engine or trans noise.  Then I put it into the desired gear for work.   If you are talking about the high low 25% reduction on the little lever in the floor, I have had this one slop out due to mud and junk built up under the pedal lever....Hope this helps.  Rarely is there any real damage inside the transmission.  I believe that geabox could easily handle over 100 hp....

12
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / Re: 822 vs 825
« on: June 08, 2019, 10:44:27 AM »
my tractor looks just likie the one in the picture and has 825 on the hood.  I am the 3rd owner..

13
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / Re: 98 belarus 2045 4x4 issues
« on: June 08, 2019, 10:43:02 AM »
Any report on what was found???

14
MTZ Tractors - Current Models / 3 point hitch Cat dimensions
« on: June 08, 2019, 10:38:29 AM »
My 1220.4 has cat 2, 3 point hitch.   The distance between the lower links is supposed to be 32.48 in according to ASAE specs.  When the arms are spread to 32.48in, the arms are so slanted due to the narrow distace between the lifting arms at the top deck.  This causes a bind when raising sometimes enough to release the quick connect on the balls, and also when I use the hydraulic top link to grade with my box blade.  I bent a 1-1/8 in dia pin in the quick attach frame due to this binding..  The lower lift arms need to be off set more to allow a wider distance for cat 2 equipment.   this is a cat 2 tractor,  CAt 1 implements are not robust enough to hold up to this tractor.. 

I have emailed Arie a couple of times about this.....  I question if the tractor has the correct lower arms perhaps these should be on a lower horsepower model.   They are heavy enough for this tractor..  If the factory has no modifiction available, thei I have no choice but to widen the offset on the lower lift arms.  The method that immediately comes to mind is to cut the arms behind the offset and weld in a spacer block of 1in solid steel or more whatever is needed to create a lift arm that is perpendicular with the axle centerline when expanded to cat 2 dimensions. 
 I have attached a crude schematic as to what is occurring when the arms are spread to cat2 dimensions.

15
MTZ Tractors - Current Models / Update on 1220.4 Clutch shudder
« on: January 16, 2019, 09:08:40 AM »
My 1220.4 has about 200 hours on it now, and the clutch  that was repaired, is now slipping.  This is not due to anything MTZ or the mechanic who repaired it for me did.  This is due to the mechanic who left out the pilot bearing in the flywheel not installing the Button style cerametallix clutch disks.  Using the tractor for normal operations and moving hay bales to feed cattle has caused the woven linings that were for a tractor of 1/2 the horsepower of this tractor to slip.  I have made adjustments, but in addition as the clutch gets hot from working, it drags excessively creating a lot of gear crashing when using the range revese shifter. 

When the weather clears up so that I can let this tractor go into the shop, we will get this fixed.   

Thanks to Arie and all of MTZ for stepping up to agree to supply a complete clutch disk and pressure plate assembly. 

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