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Topics - damengineer

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MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / 822 electrical problems
« on: March 09, 2020, 10:44:48 AM »
My 822 would not start, the starter would not engage.  24V switch would acturate but no starter.  One of hte screws that holds the solenoid onto the starter had vibrated out and the solenoid case was out of alignment.  However, after getting it all together I started up and drove about 300 ft and the starter engaged.  I staopped and restarted it and after it ran about 15 seconds the starter again engaged.  I finally had to quit.  It appears the interlock relay is bad.  I have ordered both relays in the circuit and another ignition switch as my switch is frozen and I had connected a switch to the 24v switch to actuate the starter.  Perhaps the ignition switch is stuck in start position and causing the problem.  If replacement does not work, then complete rewiring is in order... 

MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / 822 ground switch upgrade
« on: February 28, 2020, 12:00:48 PM »
My 822 ground switch is the old pushbutton stylle switch.  My arthritis has got bad enough that I can't push the button in.  My wife always had trouble with it.   I have lubricated the stem also and it still is just too hard to push.  I have a couple of the newer style ground switches, for my 8345, but the newer switch is not as deep as the old one and will not make connection to the grounding bracket at the bottom of the switch to the cab.  I cannot find a part number for the bracket for a 8345 as I don't have parts manuals for the 8000 & 9000 series.  The newer style switch will work, but there is a lot of modifications to the bracket needed to make it work.   a bracket from an 8345 would solve the problem...  Also I would like to have a sert of parts manuals for the 8345

MTZ Tractors - Current Models / 1220.4 Air conditioner problems
« on: July 02, 2019, 04:55:48 PM »
My 1220.4 A/C is blowing hot air.  The compressor high side pressure will rise to 500 lbs quickly when the switches are bypassed.  I suspect the dessicant bag in the filter drier has disentegrated.  It  probably has plugged the expansion valve.  Does anyone have a number on the expansion valve.  Ray has listings on all the parts except the expansion valve.

MTZ Tractors - Current Models / 3 point hitch Cat dimensions
« on: June 08, 2019, 10:38:29 AM »
My 1220.4 has cat 2, 3 point hitch.   The distance between the lower links is supposed to be 32.48 in according to ASAE specs.  When the arms are spread to 32.48in, the arms are so slanted due to the narrow distace between the lifting arms at the top deck.  This causes a bind when raising sometimes enough to release the quick connect on the balls, and also when I use the hydraulic top link to grade with my box blade.  I bent a 1-1/8 in dia pin in the quick attach frame due to this binding..  The lower lift arms need to be off set more to allow a wider distance for cat 2 equipment.   this is a cat 2 tractor,  CAt 1 implements are not robust enough to hold up to this tractor.. 

I have emailed Arie a couple of times about this.....  I question if the tractor has the correct lower arms perhaps these should be on a lower horsepower model.   They are heavy enough for this tractor..  If the factory has no modifiction available, thei I have no choice but to widen the offset on the lower lift arms.  The method that immediately comes to mind is to cut the arms behind the offset and weld in a spacer block of 1in solid steel or more whatever is needed to create a lift arm that is perpendicular with the axle centerline when expanded to cat 2 dimensions. 
 I have attached a crude schematic as to what is occurring when the arms are spread to cat2 dimensions.

MTZ Tractors - Current Models / Update on 1220.4 Clutch shudder
« on: January 16, 2019, 09:08:40 AM »
My 1220.4 has about 200 hours on it now, and the clutch  that was repaired, is now slipping.  This is not due to anything MTZ or the mechanic who repaired it for me did.  This is due to the mechanic who left out the pilot bearing in the flywheel not installing the Button style cerametallix clutch disks.  Using the tractor for normal operations and moving hay bales to feed cattle has caused the woven linings that were for a tractor of 1/2 the horsepower of this tractor to slip.  I have made adjustments, but in addition as the clutch gets hot from working, it drags excessively creating a lot of gear crashing when using the range revese shifter. 

When the weather clears up so that I can let this tractor go into the shop, we will get this fixed.   

Thanks to Arie and all of MTZ for stepping up to agree to supply a complete clutch disk and pressure plate assembly. 

MTZ Tractors - Current Models / 1220.4 Clutch adjustment
« on: December 29, 2018, 10:25:41 PM »
I have to adjust the dual plate clutch on the 1220.  I was moving a loot of hay and under a deadline Christmas Morning!!  I was using it in Reverse 1st gear high range and Forward 1st gear high range.  The clutch must have slipped some when starting forward as it is now slipping after 60 bales.  Adjusting the clutch by the  methond in the owners and disassembly manual is not so straightforward.  This clutch is different from the dual plate clutches I am used to.. 

MTZ Tractors - Current Models / MTZ 1220.4 Has plenty of power
« on: May 17, 2018, 12:33:15 AM »
Put the 15 ft Rhino Bat Wing mower on the 1220.4 a couple of weeks ago.  I had about 100 acres of old prairie bluestem, johnson grass and clover that was 2 years old.  It had fallen and was about 2 ft deep and thick.   The 1220 went through it like it had nothing behind it.  I was traveling about 4mph in order to mulch the grass as best I could.  Ran about 6 hours and cut over 30 acres.   

The only ergonomic objection I have to the tractor is I cannot get the seat back far enough to suit me.   I run with the seat on my New Holland TS110 nearly at the back glass!  I am 6ft 1in tall and weigh 325lbs.  After the 6 hours of running with the close up setting of the seat, my bad knee and ruptured discs gave me fits for the next day.   

I had an air seat suspension bought for another tractor.  It has the air control on the front.  I mounted it as far back as it would go on the bracket from the original seat.  Then installed 2x3in steel tubing between the seat and the suspension to raise the seat farther.  When I get the seat where I like it, when I hit a rough place, it hits the partition in the back of the cab where the batteries used to go on the earlier models.  The 1220 has the batteries under the hood in front.     I can cut out the partition and move the seat back at  least 6 inches.  If I did that, I could remove the tubing under the seat.  I nearly hit my head on the roof now in the case of hitting a really rough spot. 

I cannot find a manufacturer that lists a seat for the MTZ or even the Belarus.  Ian at Higginson sent me a file of a seat that they use to replace the original, but it was a .dat file and I cannot open it.. 

Anyone had any experience with either opening a .dat file or changing seats.   At $500 and up for seats and suspension, I don't want to start throwing money at it without solving the problem.  I have to solve this seat problem, or I cannot sit on the tractor much without damaging my already pinched spinal cord... 

My only objection to this tractor is there is a large difference in the forward and reverse speeds when using the range selector as a shuttle during loader work.  To keep nearly the same speed in forward and reverse,  both gear levers have to be changed.  1st gear reverse is about equal to 4th gear range I in forward.   The range shifter is not synchronized, but the gear selector is.   The dual plate clutch has a lot of momentum built up and without a clutch brake, there is a lot of gear clashing over 1000 rpm...  For most operations it is not a p;roblem, but when using a loader, it is inconvenient.  However, I had a full bucket of dirt and an 8 ft box blade on the rear, and it handled the load with no problem without ballast in the tires.   It is truly a well balanced tractor.  A heavy one too. 
Even with the inconveniences, it is a good buy for a 125hp cab tractor. 

Attachments, Loaders and Accessories / Joystick control for 8345
« on: March 18, 2018, 09:55:47 PM »
While the loader is off of my 8345 I would like to install a joystick valve for the loader.  After a day of loading hay on trucks with the original valve controls, my shoulder is worn out.  Ergonomics must not have an Ukranian equivalent!!
I can get a cable operated valve with a joystick and power beyond to connect between the pump and the 2 spool control valve.  My tractor does not have the Belarus valve it has the Husco valve on it.  The only pictures I have of the valve is in a parts manual for an 825.  8345 is not on the MTZ site. 
I have not taken all the dashboard covers apart, I recovered them a couple of years ago and it was a pain then...  From looking at some pictures of the 825, it probably has those blasted banjo fittings on the valve.  If all else fails and it is a steel line I can get a braze on fitting and cut the line in two. 

Anyone have any experience with this??

I replied to my earlier post about the no cranking issue.  I knew it was something simple.  Just had to get to a peson who had one of the tractrors in front of him...   Ian at Higginson in Canada knows these tractors very well.  I had a bad vibration/grinding when the clutch pedal was pushed just past release or held released for more than 5 seconds.  It would even pull the tractor enough that the brakes would have to be engaged.  I checked the dual  plate clutch for adjustment then held the pedal down and pushed up with a screwdriver on the rear disk.  Both disks moved upward nearly 1/4in!!  This is a very low hour 2 yr old tractor.  Considering the time it robably took coming across the pond and the lack of use, it may have been moisture, or when the engine was mounted into the dual clutch, it may have been forced into the pilot bearing.  If I had my shop cleaned out and had an extra hand, I would do it myself.   Arie & Ian have been great to work with, and there was no disagreement about it needing to be split.  These guys work like dealers did in the old days when a handshake was a contract.   

MTZ Tractors - Current Models / MTZ 1220.4 will not crank
« on: January 11, 2018, 10:32:13 PM »
Took delivery this afternoon on my new 1220.4.  Had to pull it off the trailer with another tractor after working for 2 hours to start it.  The 20 amp fuse on the small inverter box over the batteries was blown.   I eplaced it with another and it blew immediately.  The ign switch was on.  Turned off switch and replaced fuse.  Still no cranking.  Worked batt switch several times in case of corrosion in switch.  Still no crank.  Shorted across large terminals of solenoid from batt to starter and got a small spark. 
Dealer swears tractor started with no problems 2days ago in Sheridan Wyoming.  Truck driver wanted to start tractor a few hours after it was loaded to reposition, and says batteries were dead.  Did not know if he engaged batt switch or not.  I have tried everythign I know,  I have been a farm equipment mechanic and truck mechanic for over 50 years. I have checked everything that should be somewhat obvious, and nothing.   The weather was a pain here today, 25deg with a 50mph wind gusting to 65.   I bought 2 new batteries later in the day, but have not had time to install.  We tried jumping from 2  fully charged batteries using #2 GA jumper cables, but no cranking.  The small spark I got at the starter terminals concerns me. 

Any Help out there.   Called MTZ Extension 210 as referred and never could get someone to call me. 

MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / 8345 needs clutch
« on: January 01, 2018, 10:32:45 AM »
Just after I mounted the grapple on the loader, the clutch on the 8345 is on its last legs.  How did our other forum member fare on the 825 clutch repair.  I have the complete clutch, just lacking a clean concrete floor in the shop and a week of time.  I have splitting stands also, just need to have a week being relatively pain free and a helper.

Does anyone have the specs on the belts for an 825 with air conditioning?    Mine has the add on air conditioning with the Sanden compressor mounted next to the block and the alternator stuck out on the right side with an Idler on each belt.

MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / gas springs for cab rear window
« on: August 16, 2016, 07:31:08 PM »
In need of gas springs to hold rear window open on my 825 and 8345.  number 21054 on barrel of gas spring, and it has eyes on each end.  13 3/4 in compressed and 9 in stroke.  I hav e looked for hours on every website trying to find either the Belarus part or an after market.  This size just seems to be pure unobtanium..   Anyone have any help :-\ ?

MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / parts diagram for 8345 needed
« on: August 20, 2015, 09:38:34 AM »
My 8345 has broken the clevis that is the pivot point for the control lever on the valve spool for the 2 spool valve hydraulic control.   I cannot tell what is there as it requires one to stand on your head in the cab to find the part.  I have tried a remote scope/camera and really cannot tell what I am looking at.  All the parts manuals I can get into show a ball shaped pivot on the control lever to the spool.  This tractor does not have one.  It is supposed to be a 2003 model. 

Also I cannot get into the MTZ older equipment manuals it keeps asking for a user name and password....   I have forgotten my password as it is stored.   There is not a method to find a password that I can find.  As a moderator for this list I am afraid it am lacking in the necessary skills to maneuver within the forum...   

I really need some help quickly on this problem with the hydraulic control.   I am down to 2 loader tractors, my 8345 and my 825, The 825 is leaking oil at the hyd valve, but it is still functioning....  this is my busiest time of the season as I am baling and moving hay.

MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / 8345 overheating
« on: June 13, 2015, 12:19:56 PM »
My 8345 is overheating while pulling my  617 New Holland 9 ft disc mower.    Last year I replaced the top tank on the radiator and the cap.  I removed the radiator shutter and washed out all the coolers and condensers.   I disassembled the thermostat  and reinstalled the restrictor plate.   I have not had any problems with overheating.   When I started pulling the disc mower, in about 10 minutes the heat gauge started moving from 80c to 100c ZI thought perhaps the gauge was not correct, so I continued on and the gauge raised another 10 deg.   I replaced the fan belt with a wider belt to allow for worn pulleys and re tightened the belt after  running 30 minutes.  The overheating still occurred.  If I continued for another 10 minutes the oil pressure started to drop.  When I removed the radiator cap, I noticed the water flowing in the top of the tank and also a few bubbles.  I could not determine if this was from turbulence or exhaust leaking into the cooling system.   The tractor starts and runs great uses no oil and no water is in the oil.  When I can find my combustion leak tester,  I will check the coolant for traces of combustion....     

I have a 6 blade fan ordered, I also wonder about the restrictor plate.  There are 3 different thermostats that are listed, how do I tell which one is the correct one?

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