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1
MTZ Tractors - Current Models / Re: MTZ 1220 not cranking, now clutch shudder.
« Last post by Haymaker on February 19, 2018, 11:14:21 PM »
Just an update to the forum.  My 1220.4 is now working fine.  The pilot bearing was missing from the flywheel.   It appears the flywheel had been sent to a machine shop for resurfacing, which I doubt it needed, ( just based on my 50 years of experience ) the normal procedure is to remove the pilot bearing whether it is turned on a lathe, or surface ground to preovent grindings in the bearing.   The bearing was not replaced in the flywheel, and obviously the earlier mechanic was having a bad day and didn't notice the pilot bearing wasn't installed.  Ray at MTZ parts quickly sent me a bearing, and also a transmission input shaft so we could align the twin disk clutch.  Sometimes it is a little tricky to get the splines on both clutch disks aligned in addition to radial alignment. 

I want to thank Ray Boulanger in parts, Ian Higginson in service, and Arie Prilikin sales for their quick response on this.  Arie please pass on my thanks.  I got this tractor repaired at a dealer about 100 miles away in less time than a John Deere or a Case IH would have been waiting in line at the dealership. 

The clutch works fine, Greg Hill at Greg's Farm Service in Cordell Oklahoma, performed the work at a very reasonable charge.  In fact, I left my 8345 for him to install a clutch when I picked up the 1220.  He will also get my 4010 Deere and my 7030 Allis for clutch repair.   I have a splitting stand, but with my medical issues, and time constraints,  I can spend a day driving a truck and trailer 200 miles RT to deliver the tractor easier than I can split it. 

I am now installing the loader back on the 1220.  It is the MTZ loader and built out of 1in and 1 1/4 thick plate steel.  It looks like it will handle 3 times what the load rating is.  Even though it is very heavy, I am able to install it by myself which is a great help since I do not have any additional help available.  My only caveat on the loader is the a ttaching bolts.  The loader uses a 1/2 inch shim between the tractor frame and the loader frame.  The bolts must be for the loader to mount without the shim.  I purchased bolts locally that were 1/2 inch longer.   The bolts were M16 x 50, I found M16 x 70 a little longer than I wanted, but they use a flat washer and lock washerunder the head.  The flat washers furnished with the loader are smaller OD and lighter gauge than I liked, some of the bolt holes are slots.  I used 5/8 SAE grade 8 lock washers and bolts, and they worked fine.  I had no issues with the longer bolts bottoming out, and in a couple of spots a nut is used on the back side of the frame, the longer bolts allowed me to use a flat washer on the back also to prevent breaking out the frame from fatigue.    This loader has at least 3 times the attaching bolts that my Koyker or my Woods loaders have.   I don't think there will be any problems with bolts breaking or coming loose. 

My recommendation to the factory regarding the clutch would be to look into using a wet clutch instead of the dual plate.  The dual plate requires both disks to engage at the same time, or the power is first transmitted to one disk creating most wear on that one.  An oil clutch will last nearly forever.  I have a 930 Case and a D6 Caterpillar with wet clutches,  and it can slip all day long when working with a loader, and has been adjus ted once in 20 years.  I also bought it used from the original owner, so I have no idea if it was adjusted earlier.   I do know it is the original clutch.  The housing on the 1220 could be easily converted to a wet clutch. 

So far I am very satisfied with the tractor and loader.  I have not completed the loader installation as other farm chores took priority yesterday, then during the night the weather changed to 25deg with 35mph N wind.  You have to love Oklahoma to stay here.....


Regarding wet clutch on loader tractors.  Yes for sure tractors with the left hand operated hyd. reverser (wet clutch pack) system is much better durability and user friendly for sure. But they do fail if worked daily like in a feed lot /dairy farm doing loader work chores daily.  I know on say the older  MX Case's and MTX McCormick's they do wear out as I know guys who have them. IF work load is spread out more like lots of field work then that's different.  Construction equipment like crawler tractors that go back and forth all day use torque converters etc .

I have a Case 970 and my C1 clutch failed (the one that applies when you release the clutch pedal). The fiction disc was good but it broke out where it slides onto the sun gear.  On my Case 2090 the C1 clutch just failed and it doesn't even have a loader on it with about 4500hrs on it.   

Dry clutches take abuse doing loader work constantly also depeneds on the operator too.  Fellow i know worked at NH years ago and said they'd have NH dry cltuch chore tractors come in with the farmers complaining  only getting  400hrs. out of a clutch.  He said it was partly design and operator (hired hands) abuse  in those cases.  Come to think of it i think he mentioned back then they were gonna try a Kevlar friction disc or something better then the standard organic oem style they came with at the time.   Now a days pretty much they are all wet clutchs with the left hand reverser.

Sure MTZ could produce a basic wet clutch set up or even one with a forward/ Reverse wet clutch operated shuttle shift..  IT would certainly make them more attractive for heavy loader use applications with the shuttle shift  But of course there would be a cost and the majority of their sales are for the lower cost basic machines like what they have.  IF they offered that 1220 with the left hand fwd/rev lever and say a 16 speed partial ps transmission( 4 ps/4 ranges) it would be ideal. 

The Belarus/ MTZ dry clutches are pretty darn cheap less.... than my kids  little VW car!! 
2
MTZ Tractors - Current Models / Re: MTZ 1220 not cranking, now clutch shudder.
« Last post by Thomusnut on February 19, 2018, 02:22:11 AM »
I am like you I want to know how I need to fix it.
3
Maintenance - Service & Repair / Re: Belarus 5460s (2002) clutch kit
« Last post by Thomusnut on February 19, 2018, 02:21:30 AM »
Is it a good brake kit? I want to change. Introduce me
4
Maintenance - Service & Repair / Re: Belarus 5460s (2002) clutch kit
« Last post by Haymaker on February 18, 2018, 10:51:24 PM »
Not sure what you're asking??  Finding a clutch for a 5460S (shuttle) vs the 5460?  or the actual procedure of installing of the clutch?

You can get that clutch right from https://mtzbelarusparts.com/  just give them a call to verify (shuttle version vs non).  Also you can get it at any MTZ dealer, after market stores, or multiply parts stores online in CANADA/USA as that same clutch (13.5" dia) is used for decades on that series/size of tractor.   On mine I went to my local clutch/brake shop that rebuilds clutches. They made me a new friction disc, then machined my pressure plate and fly wheel too.  But Belarus/MTZ sells each piece or  a whole kit if that's the route you want to go.
5
Maintenance - Service & Repair / Belarus 5460s (2002) clutch kit
« Last post by apcloutier on February 18, 2018, 09:54:28 AM »
Hey guys!


I'm looking to replace the clutch assembly on my Belarus 5460s. My problem is that on every part website I look, the only fitment information I can get is that it fit on a 5460 belarus tractor. Nobody talks about the fitting on the 5460s...


I think that the clutch would fit for sure. But considering the cost of the shipping, I just want to make sure with some experts!


What do you guys think?


Thanks!
6
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7
Maintenance - Service & Repair / Re: 250as Fuel Pump rebuild
« Last post by hacki on February 14, 2018, 04:07:23 AM »
There are valves in the pre-pump, they may be dirty or damaged.
You must check if there is any damage to the gaskets and hoses.
If you need, I have a lot of new parts to bielrus 250
8
This approx $33 alternative to $600+ Duo-Grip V-Bar/Aquiline Talon tractor tire chains works great for traction on ice & frozen ground. No more unsafe skidding while braking etc. No more spinning rear tires with heavy loader use, especially for 2WD tractors or those without FWD slip clutches who NEED the rear tires to do most of the work.

Tire chains have their place but cheap screws work great on ice, can't fall between lugs like some chains, ride much smoother and are kinder to pavement & floors. Rubber mats or plywood strips will keep your concrete garage floor scratch free. Also, you can leave them on year round.

The 13.6-38 rear tires on my Belarus 420A/T-40A take 288 #14 x 3/4" hex head screws at 3 per lug so I bought 300 & used the extras on the ft tires for more steering traction.

Install screws with 3/8" hex bit & clutched drill/driver. Could've used 1" long TapCon masonary screws on my tires but these 3/4" long screws don't pull out of good rubber even when spinning on rocks, stumps & roots with a 1300 lb drawbar ballast box. Note this mod works best on good rubber, screws put to hard use will pull out of old dry-rotted rubber.

If you have a locking diff this method will work wonders even if you only "stud" one tire & less screws will also work well.

MATERIALS:
Approx three 100 packs of Hillman 70331 #14 x 3/4 " Hex Washer Head Slotted Sheet Metal Screws $10.99 ea. on Amazon.

Happy Trails,
B
9
This quick & cheap mod provides a 2 gal-8 oz reserve of warm fuel so if you start sputtering from low, contaminated or gelled fuel all you do is flip the petcock from the drivers seat to keep going.

-A "Blitz" brand 2 gal-8oz plastic tank fits snuggly in the left battery bay (now vacant after switching to a single Group 31, 950 CCA, 12v battery).

-Drill 1/2" hole in bottom right of plastic tank under spout for a 5/16" OD barbed brass "Trans Cooler Line Fitting." Install with 1/2" steel washer, rubber washers/o-rings & tighten brass nut with socket & long extension. I also applied thick CA glue on the barbed fitting & rubber washers during installation then sprayed with catalyst for good & instant seal.

-Drill tiny vent hole in top of plastic tank spout (as you can see in pic my spout was broken so I vented through a shotgun shell that I slide up off an o-ring to expose vent hole).

-Run 1.5" of 5/16" ID fuel line from tank fitting to petcock then about 7" fuel line down to barbed brass Tee that taps into main fuel line. This provides enough slack to be able to pull tank out & rest on floor next to PTO clutch pedal w/o disconnecting anything for "battery bay" service access.

The engine heat keeps the reserve fuel warm so it won't gel in extreme cold. My reserve tank stays extra warm because I mounted my muffler vertically nearby on a custom loader reinforcement/rops/branch guard/LED light bar mount.

For easier tank refilling unclip bungee cord & slide tank out a couple inches.

MATERIALS:
-One 2 gal-8 oz "Blitz" brand plastic tank (or whatever fits your battery bay);

-One small inline fuel petcock to fit 5/16" ID fuel line. (I used a Briggs & Stratton "Inline Fuel Shut-Off Valve" #698183);

-About 8.5" of 5/16" ID fuel line;

-One 5/16" OD barbed brass Tee fitting. (AutoZone #55109 is Dorman 3 pc assortment w/ 1/4", 5/16" & 3/8" Tee fittings);

-One 5/16" OD barbed brass "Trans Cooler Line Fitting" (AutoZone #563963);

-One 1/2" ID steel washer, two 1/2" ID rubber washers or o-rings & brass nut to fit above fitting (AutoZone). Thick CA glue & spray catalyst optional;

-Six #4-6 hose clamps.

Happy Trails,
B

 
10
MTZ Tractors - Current Models / Re: MTZ 1220 not cranking, now clutch shudder.
« Last post by damengineer on February 10, 2018, 09:40:26 AM »
Just an update to the forum.  My 1220.4 is now working fine.  The pilot bearing was missing from the flywheel.   It appears the flywheel had been sent to a machine shop for resurfacing, which I doubt it needed, ( just based on my 50 years of experience ) the normal procedure is to remove the pilot bearing whether it is turned on a lathe, or surface ground to preovent grindings in the bearing.   The bearing was not replaced in the flywheel, and obviously the earlier mechanic was having a bad day and didn't notice the pilot bearing wasn't installed.  Ray at MTZ parts quickly sent me a bearing, and also a transmission input shaft so we could align the twin disk clutch.  Sometimes it is a little tricky to get the splines on both clutch disks aligned in addition to radial alignment. 

I want to thank Ray Boulanger in parts, Ian Higginson in service, and Arie Prilikin sales for their quick response on this.  Arie please pass on my thanks.  I got this tractor repaired at a dealer about 100 miles away in less time than a John Deere or a Case IH would have been waiting in line at the dealership. 

The clutch works fine, Greg Hill at Greg's Farm Service in Cordell Oklahoma, performed the work at a very reasonable charge.  In fact, I left my 8345 for him to install a clutch when I picked up the 1220.  He will also get my 4010 Deere and my 7030 Allis for clutch repair.   I have a splitting stand, but with my medical issues, and time constraints,  I can spend a day driving a truck and trailer 200 miles RT to deliver the tractor easier than I can split it. 

I am now installing the loader back on the 1220.  It is the MTZ loader and built out of 1in and 1 1/4 thick plate steel.  It looks like it will handle 3 times what the load rating is.  Even though it is very heavy, I am able to install it by myself which is a great help since I do not have any additional help available.  My only caveat on the loader is the a ttaching bolts.  The loader uses a 1/2 inch shim between the tractor frame and the loader frame.  The bolts must be for the loader to mount without the shim.  I purchased bolts locally that were 1/2 inch longer.   The bolts were M16 x 50, I found M16 x 70 a little longer than I wanted, but they use a flat washer and lock washerunder the head.  The flat washers furnished with the loader are smaller OD and lighter gauge than I liked, some of the bolt holes are slots.  I used 5/8 SAE grade 8 lock washers and bolts, and they worked fine.  I had no issues with the longer bolts bottoming out, and in a couple of spots a nut is used on the back side of the frame, the longer bolts allowed me to use a flat washer on the back also to prevent breaking out the frame from fatigue.    This loader has at least 3 times the attaching bolts that my Koyker or my Woods loaders have.   I don't think there will be any problems with bolts breaking or coming loose. 

My recommendation to the factory regarding the clutch would be to look into using a wet clutch instead of the dual plate.  The dual plate requires both disks to engage at the same time, or the power is first transmitted to one disk creating most wear on that one.  An oil clutch will last nearly forever.  I have a 930 Case and a D6 Caterpillar with wet clutches,  and it can slip all day long when working with a loader, and has been adjus ted once in 20 years.  I also bought it used from the original owner, so I have no idea if it was adjusted earlier.   I do know it is the original clutch.  The housing on the 1220 could be easily converted to a wet clutch. 

So far I am very satisfied with the tractor and loader.  I have not completed the loader installation as other farm chores took priority yesterday, then during the night the weather changed to 25deg with 35mph N wind.  You have to love Oklahoma to stay here.....
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