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MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / Re: 8345 needs clutch
« Last post by damengineer on February 24, 2018, 09:17:36 PM »
I probably should have said the clutch repair cost me a little over $1000 labor and machine work.  I had the clutch kit for over 5 years, it was about $300 back then..  The mechanic charges me $60/hr for labor in his own shop....  Very reasonable, here the dealerships are $125/hr.  Dealerships also do not like to work on 15yr old tractors.   The dealerships don't have many qualified mechanics as the oil patch is paying too much money for the dealeships to attract good help. 
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / Re: 8345 needs clutch
« Last post by damengineer on February 24, 2018, 09:11:25 PM »
8345 has a new clutch.   The mechanic who repaired the clutch in my MTZ 1220.4 did the repair.  It cost more than the 1220, partly because it was not as clean I am sure, even though I spent 3 hours with the hot water pressure washer.  It really needed cleaning, and my detergent injector was not working.   The guy is very conscientious and I can trust him, so I am happy.  I was not looking forward to splitting that one by myself.   Maybe later when I get my shop cleaned out and my splitting stand loosened up, I still need to put a clutch in the 4010 and the 7030 Allis.  The Case 1270 is also leaking...

He took the flywheel to be resurfaced, I don't usually do that, but he insisted.  He said the machine shop spent about 3 times the normal surface time because the flywheel was so hard.  He said the pressure plate was just about gone, and there was a little wear on the flywheel, but no hot spots.  I replaced the disk with the one with the Ceramettalix buttons.  I have had the clutch kit here for almost 5 years. 

I knew it was getting weak, I had adjusted the clutch before we pushed posts in the last time building fence.  My New Holland with the left hand reverser is better for manuervability, but the loader is not as smooth when pushing down.  When a post hits a hard spot, the pressure will build up and then quickly shove it down sometimes bending a post.  it is a closed center pressure compensated load sensing system.   The 8345 with the open center system just pushes the post in!!!

 I had a David Brown many years ago in a rental service with a loader.  We went through clutches every month until I determined that the machine shop that resurfaced the flywheel had not resurfaced the bosses on the flywheel where the pressure plate mounted.  The perssure plate recessed into the flywheel.   When I put it on the lathe and turned the mounting down, the clutch lasted over a year, being used nearly every day cleaning up around apartments.   
Member Introductions / Re: Free manuals + official OEM parts web site is now open
« Last post by Ruthless on February 22, 2018, 04:58:39 AM »
 The most important part of this content is more and more, and I can recommend the knowledge so that I can publish it for future use.
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / Re: What size batteries for AN400?
« Last post by Brought Upright on February 22, 2018, 03:25:38 AM »
I use a single Group 31, 950 CCA, 12v battery in my Belarus 420A/T40A which should have the same size battery bay as your 400. A Group 31 battery is about 6-13/16" wide x 9-7/16" tall x 13" long if you want to check.

With this battery & a fast Gear Reduction Starter (about $140) my 420A will start everytime in the cold with no compression release and no hydraulic pump disengagement though I do use the compression release to get the oil flowing.

I'm all ears for Group 31 battery recommendations but I fried an Interstate 31-MHD on a good OEM starter in two years & replaced it with a cheaper, heavier AutoZone Duralast 31-950 which had an 18 month warranty vs. 12 months for the Interstate 31-MHD (in a diesel tractor)...but I just noticed AutoZone has since reduced their warranty to 12 months as well.

AutoZone Duralast 31-950 
$119.99 $5 core
950 CCA, 1185 CA
195 Reserve Capacity
6-13/16" x 9-7/16" x 13"
59.91 lbs

Interstate 31-MHD
"$151.95-$168.85 suggested retail"
950 CCA, 1190 CA
195 Reserve Capacity @25 Amps
6.75" x 9.38" x 13"
59 lbs

Happy Trails,

PS: After ditching the two OEM 6v batteries I use the vacant left battery bay for a reserve fuel tank: https://www.mtztractortalk.com/mtz-tractors-old-models/quick-cheap-belarus-400-405-420-425-t-40-reserve-fuel-tank-installation/
MTZ Tractors - Old Models (Belarus) / What size batteries for AN400?
« Last post by tractorman on February 21, 2018, 08:14:00 PM »
I have a 400 a.n. and it has the place for two batteries but I don't know what size batteries it takes. Could someone advise me on the cranking amps I need Etc? Or a link to what size I need?
MTZ Tractors - Current Models / Re: MTZ 1220 not cranking, now clutch shudder.
« Last post by Haymaker on February 19, 2018, 11:14:21 PM »
Just an update to the forum.  My 1220.4 is now working fine.  The pilot bearing was missing from the flywheel.   It appears the flywheel had been sent to a machine shop for resurfacing, which I doubt it needed, ( just based on my 50 years of experience ) the normal procedure is to remove the pilot bearing whether it is turned on a lathe, or surface ground to preovent grindings in the bearing.   The bearing was not replaced in the flywheel, and obviously the earlier mechanic was having a bad day and didn't notice the pilot bearing wasn't installed.  Ray at MTZ parts quickly sent me a bearing, and also a transmission input shaft so we could align the twin disk clutch.  Sometimes it is a little tricky to get the splines on both clutch disks aligned in addition to radial alignment. 

I want to thank Ray Boulanger in parts, Ian Higginson in service, and Arie Prilikin sales for their quick response on this.  Arie please pass on my thanks.  I got this tractor repaired at a dealer about 100 miles away in less time than a John Deere or a Case IH would have been waiting in line at the dealership. 

The clutch works fine, Greg Hill at Greg's Farm Service in Cordell Oklahoma, performed the work at a very reasonable charge.  In fact, I left my 8345 for him to install a clutch when I picked up the 1220.  He will also get my 4010 Deere and my 7030 Allis for clutch repair.   I have a splitting stand, but with my medical issues, and time constraints,  I can spend a day driving a truck and trailer 200 miles RT to deliver the tractor easier than I can split it. 

I am now installing the loader back on the 1220.  It is the MTZ loader and built out of 1in and 1 1/4 thick plate steel.  It looks like it will handle 3 times what the load rating is.  Even though it is very heavy, I am able to install it by myself which is a great help since I do not have any additional help available.  My only caveat on the loader is the a ttaching bolts.  The loader uses a 1/2 inch shim between the tractor frame and the loader frame.  The bolts must be for the loader to mount without the shim.  I purchased bolts locally that were 1/2 inch longer.   The bolts were M16 x 50, I found M16 x 70 a little longer than I wanted, but they use a flat washer and lock washerunder the head.  The flat washers furnished with the loader are smaller OD and lighter gauge than I liked, some of the bolt holes are slots.  I used 5/8 SAE grade 8 lock washers and bolts, and they worked fine.  I had no issues with the longer bolts bottoming out, and in a couple of spots a nut is used on the back side of the frame, the longer bolts allowed me to use a flat washer on the back also to prevent breaking out the frame from fatigue.    This loader has at least 3 times the attaching bolts that my Koyker or my Woods loaders have.   I don't think there will be any problems with bolts breaking or coming loose. 

My recommendation to the factory regarding the clutch would be to look into using a wet clutch instead of the dual plate.  The dual plate requires both disks to engage at the same time, or the power is first transmitted to one disk creating most wear on that one.  An oil clutch will last nearly forever.  I have a 930 Case and a D6 Caterpillar with wet clutches,  and it can slip all day long when working with a loader, and has been adjus ted once in 20 years.  I also bought it used from the original owner, so I have no idea if it was adjusted earlier.   I do know it is the original clutch.  The housing on the 1220 could be easily converted to a wet clutch. 

So far I am very satisfied with the tractor and loader.  I have not completed the loader installation as other farm chores took priority yesterday, then during the night the weather changed to 25deg with 35mph N wind.  You have to love Oklahoma to stay here.....

Regarding wet clutch on loader tractors.  Yes for sure tractors with the left hand operated hyd. reverser (wet clutch pack) system is much better durability and user friendly for sure. But they do fail if worked daily like in a feed lot /dairy farm doing loader work chores daily.  I know on say the older  MX Case's and MTX McCormick's they do wear out as I know guys who have them. IF work load is spread out more like lots of field work then that's different.  Construction equipment like crawler tractors that go back and forth all day use torque converters etc .

I have a Case 970 and my C1 clutch failed (the one that applies when you release the clutch pedal). The fiction disc was good but it broke out where it slides onto the sun gear.  On my Case 2090 the C1 clutch just failed and it doesn't even have a loader on it with about 4500hrs on it.   

Dry clutches take abuse doing loader work constantly also depeneds on the operator too.  Fellow i know worked at NH years ago and said they'd have NH dry cltuch chore tractors come in with the farmers complaining  only getting  400hrs. out of a clutch.  He said it was partly design and operator (hired hands) abuse  in those cases.  Come to think of it i think he mentioned back then they were gonna try a Kevlar friction disc or something better then the standard organic oem style they came with at the time.   Now a days pretty much they are all wet clutchs with the left hand reverser.

Sure MTZ could produce a basic wet clutch set up or even one with a forward/ Reverse wet clutch operated shuttle shift..  IT would certainly make them more attractive for heavy loader use applications with the shuttle shift  But of course there would be a cost and the majority of their sales are for the lower cost basic machines like what they have.  IF they offered that 1220 with the left hand fwd/rev lever and say a 16 speed partial ps transmission( 4 ps/4 ranges) it would be ideal. 

The Belarus/ MTZ dry clutches are pretty darn cheap less.... than my kids  little VW car!! 
MTZ Tractors - Current Models / Re: MTZ 1220 not cranking, now clutch shudder.
« Last post by Thomusnut on February 19, 2018, 02:22:11 AM »
I am like you I want to know how I need to fix it.
Maintenance - Service & Repair / Re: Belarus 5460s (2002) clutch kit
« Last post by Thomusnut on February 19, 2018, 02:21:30 AM »
Is it a good brake kit? I want to change. Introduce me
Maintenance - Service & Repair / Re: Belarus 5460s (2002) clutch kit
« Last post by Haymaker on February 18, 2018, 10:51:24 PM »
Not sure what you're asking??  Finding a clutch for a 5460S (shuttle) vs the 5460?  or the actual procedure of installing of the clutch?

You can get that clutch right from https://mtzbelarusparts.com/  just give them a call to verify (shuttle version vs non).  Also you can get it at any MTZ dealer, after market stores, or multiply parts stores online in CANADA/USA as that same clutch (13.5" dia) is used for decades on that series/size of tractor.   On mine I went to my local clutch/brake shop that rebuilds clutches. They made me a new friction disc, then machined my pressure plate and fly wheel too.  But Belarus/MTZ sells each piece or  a whole kit if that's the route you want to go.
Maintenance - Service & Repair / Belarus 5460s (2002) clutch kit
« Last post by apcloutier on February 18, 2018, 09:54:28 AM »
Hey guys!

I'm looking to replace the clutch assembly on my Belarus 5460s. My problem is that on every part website I look, the only fitment information I can get is that it fit on a 5460 belarus tractor. Nobody talks about the fitting on the 5460s...

I think that the clutch would fit for sure. But considering the cost of the shipping, I just want to make sure with some experts!

What do you guys think?

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